Pattern Review: KnipMode Magazine 03-2014 #108 (Blouse) in Raw Silk

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Ever since this edition in the mail, I’ve had this pattern high on my wishlist.  Love the deep V neckline and partial standup collar!  Last year I made a test garment up, in long sleeves.  For this version I, I made a few changes, especially to the neckline depth, and added bust darts.

The fabric is a hand-dyed silk noile.  (Landscape dyes Pacific and 10% currawong).  More about the dying process can be found in this post

I love the neckline on this top, especially the partial collar.  The changes I made to make the top more fitted and adding the shirt-tail hem worked well.   I’d like to sew this again with long sleeves and a plain yoke.

Pattern Information

Pattern Description: Loose fitting pullover top with short sleeves.  Partial standing collar.  Y shaped neckband that closes with 3 rolleau button loops.
Sizing: 34-46 (Drafted for tall people!)

Instructions:  The instructions are in Dutch, and I did not translate them.  The  neck bands need to be assembled before the yoke is attached.  The yoke was sewn using the “burrito” method.  I used French seams for the side seams, and a rolled-hem foot to sew a narrow hem.

I also made 5 button loops instead of 3 as I didn’t like how the front bands gaped in the photos in the magazine.

Design Changes

I’d started a long sleeve version of this top last year, but abandoned it.  It was too long through upper chest  ( the bottom of the V neck ended up where the middle button is now) and I felt like it needed bust darts to help with the shape.

For this top, I drafted a similar neckline onto Lekala 4267, I darted blouse pattern that I had just sewn and liked the fit of.    I set the yoke seam to be  3″ from the shoulder seam along the neckline, and 2″ along the sleeve seam.   Then angled the V to a more suitable depth.  For the collar, I shortened the collar to match the distance from the new shoulder seam to yoke seam and shoulder seam to CB.

The shoulder seam was eliminated by cutting out the front yoke with the back yoke.

 

Part of my Autumn 2015 Wardrobe

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At a Glance:

Pattern KnipMode Magazine 03-2014 #108
Type Woven top
Fabric hand-dyed silk noile
Difficulty 3 – button loops and placket need care
End Result 4 – a real favourite
Cost Approx. AU$25 ( fabric $13, buttons $4, dye $2, thread $4)
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