Pattern Review: Patrones Magazine 339 #3 (Pantalon Lasserre) in heavy cotton twill

brown_pants.jpgI made these pants in a very heavy, tightly woven cotton twill. The fabric is still a little stiff but should soften (I hope).  The style lines of this pattern a great – a bit more detailed than most pant patterns. The princess seams make fitting much easier too.

I may sew this again in the future, possible in a summer weight stretch fabric. The construction, particularly with the pockets, is a little tricky and you will need to be able to grade between sizes. So I’d recommend it for advanced sewers only.

Pattern Description:

Design: Pants with faced waistband and princess seams front and back. Front has side yoke with zippered pocket. Back has yoke and welt pockets.  The photo only shows a section of the hip pocket rather than the full pants. I find Patrones line drawings to be very elongated, so it does tend to look different on a short pear-shaped body.

Pattern Sizing:  40–44-48 ( equiv waist of 99-74-82 cm). You’ll need to grade between sizes.

Instructions: The instructions are in Spanish so I just used the tech drawing, fabric layout and magazine photos as a guide. I used flat fell seams on all seams except for the side seam.

 

Alterations:

Some of the pattern pieces don’t quite match up, especially the yoke pieces so make sure you walk the seams before cutting out any fabric. Also there are few notches, so I’d recommend adding notches to the lower panels & yokes to avoid sewing them incorrectly.
I made a lot of changes to shorten the pattern above and below the knee, and also through the crotch. I also made a number of fitting adjustments. The princess seams make it very easy to refine the fit. I didn’t use a stretch fabric so I have relaxed the fit to suit the fabric.
I changed the front pocket to have a lapped zipper that is hidden in the seam. I also changed the back welt pockets to be zippered pockets hidden in the yoke seam line.

brown_pants_back.jpg brown_pants_pockets.jpg

At a Glance:

Pattern Patrones Magazine 339 #3
Type Woven pants
Difficulty 4 – fitting adjustments, invis zippers; instructions in Spanish
End Result 3 – fabric is a bit too stiff, but may improve with wear
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