Pattern Review: McCall 7199 in Printed Mesh

2015_10_M7199a.jpg

When this pattern was first released I was really excited.  I had seen a similar style in RTW on Anthropology and more recently, the Style Arc Marie Jacket pattern.  The different closures were appealing, especially view C with the toggle closure.

I made it up in a lightweight printed mesh.   The fabric is gorgeous but doesn’t show up well in the photographs.  I guess I had high hopes for this pattern. It is OK, but because it feels a little long on me, I’m not loving it as much as I hoped I would.

Pattern Description:

from the pattern: Semi-fitted, unlined jackets have self-lined front extending into standing back collar, seam detail, shaped hemline, wrong side shows, side-front pockets, and stitched hem on sleeves. A: Exposed zipper and metal snap. C: Toggle closure. A, B and C: Topstitching. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment.
My notes

  • The pattern is the same for all views, it is just the closures that are different.
  • The lower side front is also lined, so the pocket bag is enclosed between the outer and lining layers.
  • Side seam is angled forward at the hem

 

Pattern Sizing:

6-22. I chose my size based on the finished bust measurement I wanted, rather than using the size chart ( ie used 2 sizes smaller than recommended).

Fabric Used:

Polyester mesh with lace print. I had initially wanted to make this using a cotton jersey, but thought that four layers of the fabric across the chest would be too much. Making this in a thin mesh, reduces the bulk. I think that it is fairly “front heavy”, especially with pockets, and effects the fall of the garment when worn open. Using a double layer in the back would help even the weight out.

Alterations / design changes:

 

Reduced the shoulder width by adding more of a dart into the princess seams. I also widened the sleeves as they are a very narrow draft – more similar to a close fitting top than a jacket.
I would have liked to adjust the length, lifting the bust, waist and hip levels; and reducing the cowl depth. But the shape of the centre front piece makes this difficult. I think it would be easier to draft it, rather than alter it.
Closures – Initially I had planned to make view C with the decorative closure. I decided to use covered snaps so I could wear the jacket as in view A, B or C

Instructions:

The instructions are quite good. The curved back sections are a little tricky to sew with, so don’t skip the stay-stitching and clipping the seams, as it makes it easier to sew the seam.

Likes :

  • Similar to the StyleArc Marie jacket. I liked the style but was put off by the single size patterns and lack of finished garment size information.
  • The back seaming is really interesting. It gets a bit lost with print I used, but would look great with contrast fabrics, or just a plain colour & contrast stitching.
  • easy to change the look by changing the closure
  • The lining that encloses the pockets. It gives a really nice finish

 

Dislikes :

  • Difficult to adjust the length. I think it would have liked the finished jacket more if I was able to adjust it to my (lack of) height
  • Thickness and weight of the front layers vs the back. It feels front heavy, even though I used a thin fabric.

I wouldn’t sew it again as I don’t really need another jacket in this style. I’m on the fence as to whether I’d recommend it or not – If you don’t need to shorten it, it would be fine.

Pattern McCalls 7199
Type Knit Jacket
Difficulty 3 – instructions are good but care needed on the tight curves on the back
End Result 3 – one the fence.  Time will tell in how much it is worn

2015_10_M7199c.jpg2015_10_M7199b.jpg

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