In my winter inspiration board, I’d flagged a bra and hipster combination that I’d like to knock-off. The next bra kit is denim and sheer stripe lycra which I bought as it would be perfect for creating a similar effect.
For the bra pattern, I’m using Merckweardigh BHST2, which is a balconete-style cup with a very open back. I’ve made it a couple of times before (as a bra and as a bikini top) and love it. Copying the RTW design appeared to be a fairly straight-forward thing, but the cutting out took a lot of thought. Because of the sheer stripes, the lycra needs a little extra support on the band, and I’d like the cups to only have the illusion of being see-through.
The cup lining in the kit was black, but I dyed some lining in a dusky blue colour. My intention was to use the blue to line the uppercup and the bridge to help show off the blue sections of the lace. But, as you can see in this photo, the skin-tone powermesh that I was using for the band looked better. I didn’t have any skin-tone lining, so I tried to dye my own. It is a bit redder than the powermesh, but not enough to be noticeable when placed against the skin and with the lace over the top.
Initially, I had planned to use the black foldover elastic in the kit to do the edges, but I wasn’t sure how to do the join at the lace edging on the upper cup or on the side bridge. Instead, I decided to use normal picot elastic so I didn’t trim off the seam alowances in these areas.
Laying out the cup pieces to get the stripe to run through the seam was a bit of a head scratcher. ( Plus I was trying to save enough of the stripe fabric to get the front section for the hipsters). Sewing the seam was even harder as the fabric stretched more in the sheer sections that in the stripes. I had to use tissue paper on top of the fabric to stop it distorting when sewing, and didn’t topstitch the seams.
So from 28 fabric pieces ( not including elastics, casing or the findings)….
They are now together. Because of the colours – navy, black and skin-tone – there was a LOT of switching out spools and bobbins. I’m dreading working on the elastics as it’s going to be fussy. Here it is pinned on ‘Red’ to see the effect. I think I’ll tackle them ( and the thread tails) another day.
When I was rummaging though my haby stash for some elastic, I came across this bra that I had started earlier this year. It was at the stage where the casing had been sewn on, and waiting for the elastics. For some reason, I get to this point, thinking that I’m almost finished, and realise I still have a way to go before the bra is finished. Elastics, strapping, hooks and eyes… At least with this one, the elastics were straight forward and I could use.
So here it is finished (finally). The fabric is from scraps left over from a top, lined with a black powermesh for support. The pattern is Merckwaerdigh Mix30.